Yes, the bridge exists, and yes, it spans the River Kwai. Located next to Kanchanaburi,
Thailand, it draws many tourists expecting to view the remains of the amazing wood and
bamboo structure built by Allied prisoners, later blown up by a demolition squad. An easy day trip from Bangkok, Kanchanaburi has based its tourism on the bridge. One problem:
The 1957 movie is fiction. In fact, the novel was written by the same author who wrote Planet of the Apes (actually first called "Monkey Planet"), Pierre Boulle. Oh, there is a bridge, and yes, Allied prisoners and forced local laborers built the Death Railway under horrific conditions. But The Bridge on the River Kwai is a concrete and steel structure, low to the water, nothing like in the film. In fact, it is extremely non-imposing and, well, ugly. (Perhaps functional is a better word.) Tourists, upon viewing it, typically comment: "Uh-huh, that’s a bridge on the River Kwai. But where’s The Bridge on the River Kwai."
As in the movie, the Allieds did destroy the bridge. But not because William Holden swam up the river and blew it up; it was bombed by airplanes.
Despite being concrete and not the amazing structure built by a special effects team, the bridge is there and it's meaning is no less real. Go ahead and perform the tourist ritual of marching across it, whistling Colonel Bogey’s March. (The song the prisoners whistle in the movie.)
Kanchanaburi is a nice place, even if the bridge is a disappointment. Once away from the tourist hordes at the bridge, it is a peaceful, laid-back place with floating guesthouses and restaurants. Other required sites include the war cemetery, where 7000 prisoners of war who died working on the Death Railway are buried. The JEATH Museum displays information and artifacts from the horrible period.
Thailand is still relatively inexpensive for someone with a backpack, one of those country where few beers can cost you as much as a night in a guesthouse. (Good for the lodging budget, bad for the beer drinking budget.)
WALKABOUT FACTS
Visas:
Visitors must possess a passport valid for 6 months longer than their intended stay. 30 day visas are granted upon arrival. There is 100 baht fine for everyday you stay over 30 days. Visa extensions are possible, but it may be easier to leave the country then return.
Health:
No vaccinations are required. Anti-malaria medications are necessary if you plan to explore Northern Thailand.
Getting there:
Kanchanaburi is 130 kilometers (81 miles) west of Bangkok, over a good road. Transportation is plentiful, as it is a popular day trip from Bangkok. Trains, public buses, or charters are all available. The trip takes about two hours. There is luggage storage at the train station.
Money:
Current Exchange RateWhere to stay:
Sam’s Place, a complex of floating rafts on the slow-moving River Kwai.
Rooms are clean, with showers and fans. Some rooms have air-conditioning for an extra fee
if the oppressive heat is too much for you.
Where to eat:
There are several floating restaurants, including one next door to Sam’s Place. In the evening, foodstalls open along the river.
Recommended Walkabout Gear:
Our usual recommendation for the tropics: everything on the "Bugs" page. Other recommended gear: a Door Lock and a passport carrier.
Other must dos:
A Thai island. Koh Samui is nice, but is rapidly being exploited. Koh Phangan is a step farther from the authorities and is popular among the backpack set for that reason.
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