The Real Santa:
Despite Western myth, St. Nick’s home is not the North
Pole. In fact, it is reasonable to assume he never saw snow. For it rarely, if
ever, snows on Mediterranean beaches. Santa lived his life on the Southwest coast
of Turkey, of all places. And yes, he had a beard and allegedly gave presents to
children, but that is where the similarities end.
St. Nick was born in Patara, Turkey around 4 BC. Patara is now a sleepy coastal
town but was once the Roman seat of government in Lycia, an ancient Turkish
civilization. Patara’s ancient port has silted in, causing an abundance of
impressive ruins and mosquitoes. Patara is perhaps most famous for its
undeveloped 18 kilometer beach, perhaps the finest on the Mediterranean.
Luckily, Patara
Beach has been declared off-limits for development because of nesting sea turtles.
(The loggerhead and green turtles are nearing extinction and protection of their
nesting sites on the Turkish coast is very important.
The beach costs 50,000 Turkish Lira (about $1) and the fee includes the Lycian
ruins.
Turkey charges a $26.00 tourist visa fee to Americans. (Payable
on arrival.) Inflation
rates are so high in Turkey the
locals often prefer foreign currency, especially at the visa
desk. Carry a twenty dollar bill and avoid the hassle. (In fact, it's best to
carry two or three.)
Turkey is one of those countries whose currency has many zeros so
brush up on your tens timetables. It also has a very high inflation rate, so it
is best to exchange money as you go, especially on longer Walkabouts. Travelers
checks accepted most places. Credit cards limited except in larger cities. ATMs
in larger cities and tourist areas.
By Air: Antalya is the closest airport, served by
inexpensive flights from Istanbul. (As low as $50.00.)
By Bus: The Turkish bus
system is comprehensive and you can get about anywhere from anywhere. Fares are
low. Simply show up at the bus station (“otogar”) and announce your destination.
By Ferry: Most travelers arrive in Marmaris from Rhodes, Greece, then bus
it overland. You can also ferry it from Kastellorizo, a tiny Greek island just
off
the Turkish fishing village of Kas. (Be aware, however, because of territorial
disputes between Greece and Turkey you can go to Turkey from Kastellorizo but
cannot go to the rest of Greece from it.)
Visas:
Money:
Turkish
Lira exchange rates.Language
You
guessed it: Turkish. The Arabic script was replaced by Latin script in 1928,
so with a little effort you can recognize words. In Western Turkey, English is
fairly common, as is German.Getting There:
Where to Stay:
The St. Nicholas Pension, of course.
Cost: About
$11.00/double. Offseason, bargain. High
season: bargain. Private bathrooms, hot showers, screens on
windows (but the omnipresent mosquitoes still get through). Outdoor
restaurant/bar. Located at the only
real intersection in town, to the left as you
arrive.
Where to Eat:
There are many restaurants on the
main road
; it’s basically
the only road so you’ll see it. Shop around; prices differ. There is an
inexpensive burger stand on the road to the beach just before the ruins.
Recommended Walkabout Gear:
Insect protection is a key to enjoying your
stay in Patara. Mosquitoes can get heavy all along the Turkish coast but in
Patara they are truly impressive. Take everything on the "bugs"
page of the catalog.
Seriously. It’s money well spent. Also, a water purifier
is
essential throughout Turkey. It will pay for itself quickly in bottle water
savings. A SealPak
is important if you plan to swim in the Mediterranean.
More information:
Lonely Planet’s Turkey Guidebook
is, in our opinion, the best. Take
Mediterranean Europe on a Shoestring
if your Walkabout includes other Mediterranean
countries.
Next stop on the Santa Claus Trail:
Myra, Turkey